Route 66 And Beyond

On Monday I left the wigwam and was back on Route 66... or in this case Interstate 40. Exit signs along the way indicate whether there is a piece of the old road available for driving. Pull off the road... drive along Route 66... and perhaps sing the old nugget "(Get Your Kicks On) Route 66". Had I company in the car I would certainly have refrained from the latter. However I was solo and therefore belted out loungey, albeit off key renditions. It was a horror show!

One remaining stronghold of Route 66 is the Jackrabbit Trading Post. It was built in 1949 and the original sign is still in place. The sign is an iconic symbol for lovers of "The Mother Road". They sell a wide variety of memorabilia, American Indian jewelry, and snacks. I spoke with the current owner who said it's been in his family's possession since the mid 1960's. He was another in a long line of friendly folks I've encountered in recent weeks.



Despite the amount of research devoted to this journey surprises abound. After leaving the Jackrabbit I was heading west on I-40 towards my friend Laura's house. Cruising along I noticed a billboard for Meteor Crater. Just a few minutes from the interstate, Meteor Crater is the most well known, best preserved meteorite crater on Earth. About 50,000 years ago (which makes it quite young... as craters go) a meteorite measuring approximately 150 feet crashed into the Arizona desert. The impact created a crater nearly one mile across, 2.4 miles in circumference and more than 550 feet deep. Being the boss of the road I decided there was time to check it out. It is a mightily impressive sight.



Not so impressive... quite sad really... was Twin Arrows, AZ. Here is yet another example of the interstate system laying waste to the culture and uniqueness of Route 66. Although quite well known to students of Route 66 Twin Arrows is literally a fossil of a bygone era. The Twin Arrows Trading Post and adjoining diner have been abandoned for years and fallen into horrific disrepair. The only part of the town which has been preserved are a pair of giant arrows (easily visible from the highway). Like the sign at the Jackrabbit Trading Post the arrows are iconic symbols.



It was getting to be late in the afternoon. It was time to leave Route 66 and head south to Clarkdale, AZ and Laura's house. She suggested taking the more scenic route through the Coconino National Forest. Not since the early days of this trip driving through the magnificent hills of West Virginia have I been so stricken by nature's beauty. Although alone in the car I was once again compelled to call out "Oh my God", "I can't believe this" and the like. This was the southwest and unlike the lushness of West Virginia the Coconino National Forest had spectacular warmth and ruggedness.



Upon arriving at Laura's house I thanked her profusely for the suggestion. Years ago Laura and I met through mutual friends. We didn't see too much of each other during the year but usually got to hang out a bit during the Christmas holidays. Several years ago she sold her apartment in Brooklyn and purchased a house in Clarkdale. It was built around 1930 in the first area to be developed in town. It's mostly been outfitted with furniture and artwork purchased at thrift stores and yard sales. The furniture having a distinct 1950's, 1960's aesthetic. She has excellent taste... no junk anywhere. There are a few remnants of her fondness for New York (I spotted an ashtray from the 1964 New York World's Fair). As a whole her home conveys a kind of unselfconscious hipness I greatly admired. As unfathomable as it sounded to this Manhattanite, when Laura goes out she never locks her door... it isn't necessary. We sat on her porch and chatted. Mostly updating each other on our recent histories before squeezing in a bit of gossip (gossip which shall not be recounted here). We went to dinner, had a few beers and gossiped just a wee bit more. It was really quite lovely.

Visiting Laura was a last minute addition to my itinerary. I'm glad there was time to swing by and visit. She makes for good company...