Rock, Soul, And An Odd Food Combo

Wednesday in Memphis was an oppressive 103 degrees but I didn't care. I was going to see the King! I had been to Graceland many years ago but was anxious to see it again. The tour experience has been upgraded. In the past each group had their own personal guide. Now people are given a kind of Sirius satellite player to take them through the mansion. Get to a particular part of the house, press the corresponding number, and hear all about a given room. Sometimes in Elvis' own words... sometimes in the words of family and colleagues. At first a hand held device seemed a bit less personal but ultimately it was a more informative and enriching experience. Unlike my previous visit the kitchen is now part of the tour. He did a lot of damage to himself in that room... It felt a bit weird being in it. The jungle room made me happy. It is deliciously awful.



The wall surrounding Graceland is completely covered with graffiti. To me, anyone who wants to express their adoration for The King should start a blog, not tarnish his personal property... the knuckleheads! Perhaps in the absence of genuine rhetorical muscle people integrate Elvis song titles into their scribblings: "Elvis, you are always on my mind", "Let me be your teddy bear", "How great thou art", and "I will spend my whole life thru, loving you." Pretty pedestrian stuff. However, one frisky little minx from Oklahoma wrote "I want "one night with you." Now that's good writing!



Yes, at the cafe across the street I did eat a fried peanut butter and banana sandwich... not too bad.

After mass at Graceland I took a drive to a rather seedy neighborhood to visit the Stax Museum Of American Soul Music. It's located on the site of the original Stax recording studio. Home to hitmakers like Otis Redding, Sam And Dave, Isaac Hayes and dozens of others. Many timeless soul classics were recorded on this spot. Regrettably the original building was razed years ago but a faithful rendition was built in it's place. Across the street was a sign for a long gone restaurant... Al's tasty Burger Inn. I think I'll have a t-shirt made up...



A bit later I was back near Beale Street to see the Museum Of Rock And Soul. I parked my car and noticed a homeless man walking towards me. The poor thing was clearly damaged and broken. Back in NYC I'm careful about to whom I give money. Too many beggars use it for drugs or alcohol. This fellow was different. Perhaps this journey has begun to melt my cynicism. Perhaps it was his twisted, limping frame. When speaking he needed to cover an opening in his neck (from a tracheotomy I presume). Life had clearly not been kind to him. Yet was gentle and humble. When I gave him five bucks he cried and threw his arms around me. I held his hand and told him there is always good in the world. He thanked me repeatedly and was still sniffling when we parted ways. At least on this night he didn't suffer the indignity of begging for change on Beale Street.

After the Museum Of Rock And Soul I was feeling a bit hungry for... barbecued spaghetti. I had seen Interstate Bar-B-Q featured on television and had to taste the marriage of two of my favorite foods. I sat down and ordered their specialty dish (and a mess of ribs and pulled pork). Son of a gun! It was pretty damn good! The pasta was a tad overcooked but the spicy, tangy sauce and bits of meat more than made up for it. Only in Memphis!



Thursday morning before leaving Memphis I had to check out Sun Studios. Many consider this tiny room the birthplace of Rock And Roll. It's where a teenage Elvis strolled in one day hoping to record a song as a gift to his mother. Several months later he was joined in the studio by guitarist Scotty Moore and upright bassist Bill Black. After several uninspiring hours Elvis finally let loose and recorded "That's Allright Mama." A truly historical moment in popular music. In addition to Elvis many blues, country, and rock and roll (as it came to be known) classics were recorded there.