Hoover Dam, Route 66, And The Man Who Talked To Plants

On Wednesday I left Las Vegas and moved towards Kingman, AZ to revisit Route 66. There was a security checkpoint at Hoover Dam that caused a lengthy delay. The dam's generators provide power for public and private utilities in Nevada, Arizona and California. It hadn't occurred to me until then that the dam would make an ideal target for a terrorist attack... hence the tight security. I didn't take the tour but did stop on the Arizona side to take a few pictures and enjoy the rugged beauty surrounding the dam.



There is a stretch of Route 66 between Kingman and Seligman, AZ that has been left virtually untouched by I-40. For lovers of the grand old road it is nirvana. Only about a hundred miles in length it attracts visitors from all over the world. I was excited to see it. By the time I arrived in Kingman the temperature had dipped to a breezy 103 degrees... cool enough to warrant a pulled pork and BBQ sausage lunch... 'twas quite tasty! I hung around town for a little while... checking out a handful of antique stores and chatting with locals. However, anxious to drive on hallowed ground I bid Kingman goodbye and maneuvered my way on to the "real" Route 66. It was so thrilling to look at the GPS and see, not I-40, but AZ-66. It finally felt official. I was realizing a lifelong dream of traveling on arguably the most famous road in the world. It had become customary in my meanderings to drive a little above the speed limit (in many areas it was 75mph). On this day I was in no hurry whatsoever. I was cruising at the posted speed limit, music blaring, without a care in the world.

Somewhere between Kingman and Seligman I stopped at one of Route 66's legendary landmarks... the Hackberry General Store. Before the interstate system was in place travelers could stop there, fuel their cars and get a bite to eat before heading on their way. Once the interstate was in place business at Hackberry declined and the owners were forced to shut it's doors. It sat abandoned for years until the early 1990's when artist Bob Waldmire reopened it as a Route 66 visitors center and museum of sorts. Gasoline is no longer available but Mr. Waldmire has kept the old pumps in place along with the vintage advertising signs. Derelict antique cars are strewn about the property. Waldmire's 1957 Corvette is parked in a place of honor directly in front. It all seems to be one over sized art piece paying homage to Route 66. Inside, tchotchke hungry tourists can grab all manner of memorabilia... t-shirts, magnets, post cards, posters... everything!



I arrived in Seligman and checked in to the Supai Motel. The Supai is a 1950's era motel that was lovingly refurbished with modern touches (wireless internet and flat screen tv's) while retaining it's retro imprint. The neon sign is fantastic! The owner told me he spent thousands to have it restored. He could have easily replaced it with a modern one at a fraction of the cost. However he recognized it's value as a historical artifact (and it's ability to draw in customers) so decided to invest the money. There is a small but tenacious group of local businesses making a concerted effort to stimulate the local economy. They all help each other out. I showed my motel key at a local bar and a restaurant and received discounted prices. My restaurant of choice was Roadkill Cafe. Roadkill Cafe is a fairly good establishment with a remarkable marketing plan. They serve standard fare such as burgers, fried chicken, and steaks, but give the dishes (in my view) extraordinary names. Such as Rocky The Low Flying Squirrel, "Covered With Bugs" Bunny, Funky Skunk, Splatter Platter, Caddie Grilled Patty, High Speed Special, Bird That Smacked The Curb, Too Slow Doe, No Luck Buck, Tried-To-Pass-Me-By On Rye, Little Fender Tenders, Bad-Brake Steaks, Rigor Mortis Tortoise, Roadside Remnants, Long Gone Fawn, and my meal of choice... The Chicken That Almost Crossed The Road.



After dinner I hit the Black Cat Bar. I paid full price (AZ price, not NYC price) for a bottle of Corona. I showed the bartender my room key and got the second for like... 50 cents. Cheap beer and a pool table... Black Cat Bar turned out to be my kind of place. I chatted with the bartender and some of the locals. When one dude (a sun bleached stoner, California transplant) heard I was from NYC he yelled "Get the rope"! It was funny but he grew a bit tiresome after a while. Everyone else that night was friendly and affable.

Thursday morning I perused Seligman's gift shops. People from all over the country and the world had converged on the itty bitty town. There were motorcyclists from Spain, families from England, The French, even a smattering of Americans. All were purchasing goods... supporting the local economy. I had lunch at Delgadillo's Sno Cap. In 1953 Juan Delgadillo built his roadside burger and dog stand from scrap lumber. Known for his sense of humor he would advertise such items as "cheeseburgers with cheese" and "dead chicken". Behind the restaurant is Juan's Garden... where old cars and all types of kitsch are on display. Unfortunately Juan is gone but his sons seem to have inherited his sense of humor.



I can't quite put my finger on it but people like to talk to me. Just before reaching Delgadillo's Sno Cap I bumped into the owner of the Supai. He and his wife purchased and had begun restorations on another motel in Seligman. He was clearing some weeds when he spotted me. It turns out he's quite the philosopher. He felt people should develop their "relationship with optimism". He believed that "nature is constant and people are temporary". " Mankind are just "tourists on the planet" and "There are many people waiting in line to enter the world". He reenacted his apology to the weeds for plucking them from the ground. He had great admiration for all living things and was confident the weeds would return to the world in one form or another. At the beginning of our conversation I just wanted to be left alone to develop a relationship with a cheeseburger. As the chat wore on his peacefulness and warmth overtook me. He was a lovely fellow and I'm glad he stopped me that morning.